Now Trending: Waist Land

Posted by Julia Neel

Last season’s flarey – and not always flattering peplums – have been transformed into this season’s focus on the waist: the one area every woman in the world would like to accentuate. Yes, this is a trend with mass appeal. What’s not to like about designers trying to accentuate womanly curves instead of disguise and camouflage them?

For winter, my favourite take on this trend is via tailoring, whereby designers cleverly cut their creations to skim over busts, waists and hips, to play up all that va-va-voom. At Stella McCartney, Dolce & Gabbana and Dior, this meant neat suit jackets, cut precisely, with maybe a touch more volume over the hips (to make the waist seem smaller, see?). They were teamed with little pencil skirts and buttoned up for prim appeal.

Belts are one of autumn/winter 2012’s strongest styling cues and Acne, Fendi and Carolina Herrera all gave a nod to the season’s other big trend, Orientalism – but more on that later – by choosing Obi belts to cinch in their models’ waists. Herrera chose contrasting belts for a pretty effect, Lagerfeld at Fendi did them in the same fabric, but in a subtly contrasting hue, while Johnny Johansson at Acne gave us sporty details in the same fabric as the garment that it surrounded – a nifty styling trick, if ever there was one.

Why? Because by wearing a belt in the same hue as your outfit, you don’t break the line of your body, therefore making you seem taller and – very importantly – slimmer. Hannah McGibbon at Chloe and Alberta Ferretti both performed the same trick at their shows.

That said, a simple, black belt thrown around the waist of your jacket will look very chic indeed – just look at Rodarte, where the Mulleavy sisters belted forties wide-lapelled jackets or chunky cardigans. Keep the belt wide, though – two inches at least. Unless you’re making like Olga Kurylenko and Italian actress Alessandra Mastronardii, when you should go for a one-incher for delicate dresses and evening looks.

My top tip? Try updating your winter coat with a belt. Last season’s classic camel number will have a new lease of life when you wrap a glossy black belt around your middle. There’s never been a better time to get waisted.

Shop our edit of the best belts here!