Now Trending: TrousersPosted by Julia Neel
It’s a case of all talk about trousers next season, as designers rekindled their love of legs by sending forth an array of styles that sheathed pins in interesting new ways.
The new silhouette of autumn/winter 2012 is distinctly banana in shape. Tight at the waist and ankle, and with plenty of room to move in between, this is a look that will cover a multitude of sins, but requires a fairly svelte frame to pull them off. At Celine, they came in pink wool with giant patch pockets at the side and were worn with an ox blood leather blouse and a white skivvy.
Skivvies were also the answer at Acne, where Jonny Johansson teamed them with low-riding banana trousers, and a belt worn above the waistband over the skivvy. Granted, the styling might have been tricky, but the shape was strong.
Derek Lam did his in grey flannel and teamed them with a matching jacket to show how this look will translate into 9-to-5, while Dries Van Noten added a textural spin with luxe patchwork.
Loosely tailored mannish styles swished about legs at Balenciaga, where they came in sci-fi fabrics that shone with every step. They were gathered at the waist, with an extra panel sewn in across the waistband, and were worn with kitsch intergalactic-themed sweatshirts.
Stella teamed her low-slung versions with equally androgynous blazers and buttoned-up shirts, and at Gucci, Frida Giannini offered up modern decadence, which saw jewel-toned velvet turned into classically proportioned trousers worn with brocade and fur.
In New York, the Proenza Schouler boys gave us vanilla white slouchy boyfriend styles, while back at Celine, Phoebe Philo ran a sporty racing stripe down the side of her masculine trews, which she married with boxy multi-textured tops. Also playing a sporty game was Claire Waight-Keller in her second collection for Chloe. She added ribbed cuffs and gathered waistbands to ultra-soft woollen sweatpants for a hint of chic athleticism.
Don’t fancy a banana? Lengths are abbreviated in this season’s other big trouser story, as slim line, cigarette shapes came cropped at the ankle at Isabel Marant, Acne, Carven, Prada and YSL.
With all the trouser trends, stick to form-fitting shirts and knits on your top half to keep the look streamlined. Or add a scarf over a skivvy, as seen at Celine, for added interest.
A pair of this season’s many brogues will work nicely with either the cropped or mannish trouser trends but, for the banana leg, heels are what will make this look elegant. Or maybe wear heels with all of them, just to be on the safe side.
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