Now Trending: All That JazzPosted by Julia Neel
The 20s were roaring with all the horns of the jazz age and the swishing of flappers’ charlestoning limbs on the spring/summer 2012 catwalks, inspired in no small part by the imminent release of Baz Lurhman’s adaptation of The Great Gatsby.
Daisy Buchannans in delicate Deco details shimmied down catwalks that promised all the glamour of Gatsby’s swinging West Egg parties. Natasha Poly, with black-as-night eyes and slicked-down hair, sashayed down the Gucci runway in one of Frida Giannini’s odes to the Chrysler building and other feats of post-war architecture. All black, white and gold angles, with wisps of gilded fringing swaying over toned-as-you-like legs.
Gucci, which was founded in the 20s, incidentally, was a week late to the jazz party: in New York, at Ralph Lauren and Marchesa, a softer note was at play. At Marchesa, Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman opened their show with Karen Elson in a pale gold dress that rattled with swinging beads, and closed with Karolina Kurkova in silver tassels, thus declaring that this is a trend for lavishly glamorous evenings.
When the original Gatsby came out in 1974, it was Ralph Lauren who designed the costumes for Robert Redford’s Jay Gatsby and Mia Farrow’s Daisy Buchannan. He reprised his role as the bandmaster of the decade, issuing forth a chorus line of Daisies in pretty pastels – the perfect daytime take on the trend. Take Karlie Kloss, for example, in billowing powder blue pyjama pants, a teeny cashmere knit in buttercup yellow, with a cloche hat and a floral scarf tied at the neck.
And in Lauren’s signature he/she androgyny game, there were girls dressed as Gatsby, in pinstripes and silky palazzo pant suits.
Unsurprisingly, this is a trend made for the red carpet, whether it’s Gucci’s drop-waisted deco creations or Lauren’s satin sheaths. Camilla Belle is the paparazzi’s 20s poster girl, see her effort at the Met Ball for inspiration – vampy Clara Bow pout and gelled hairdo included. Big, bouncy Dynasty blowdries are not welcome at this particular party.
Strap on a pair of T-bar dancing shoes for up-all-night antics – no-one ever danced the Charleston in wedges. And grab a glittery clutch for your essentials – lippie, credit card, keys, you know. Drape a long strand of pearls around your neck during the day, and besparkle your lobes with vintage-inspired chandelier earrings.
Then dance the night away.
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