Who: Peter Pilotto

What: It all started simply enough at Peter Pilotto, as a modest pencil skirt and sleeveless top in monochrome graphic prints – slightly reminiscent of their resort collection – opened the show. But suddenly neon stripes were penetrating the cropped jackets and super tight trousers, and a new motif appeared. For their SS13 collection, Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto looked to the opulent Florentine frescoes and developed them, first into rough pencil drawings, mixed in with the black and white geometrics, then later on, into much more colourful and detailed prints, creating a beautiful and vibrant contrast with the abstract motifs in the second half of the show. Grown-up shapes like pencil skirts and cigarette pants were offset with another Pilotto signature: the peplum, which could be seen on the bottom of boxy cropped jackets, as well as sometimes cascading down the front of skirts or decorating their hems. But what really moved the Pilotto aesthetic forward was the fact their spring 2013 offering wasn’t just about the prints. Textures – from sporty knits and super intricate beading to finely embossed silk that gave the patterns a substantial, luxurious quality – also played a big part in a collection of beautifully structured forms that somehow seem to be fluid and delicate at the same time.

VERDICT? Recently, it seems Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto have slowly but surely been edging away from where they started, in a desperate bid to really move things forward. Finally, they have broken free with their SS13 collection. The unexpected colour combinations felt fresh and surprisingly sophisticated, while the Florentine fresco-inspired prints counteracted the harshness of the geometric lines particularly well. Their play with textures, embellishment techniques and contemporary construction – lazer cut-outs adorned with thousands of tiny beads were standouts – have given their ever fascinating prints a new, and much needed, dimension. Hopefully, this will be enough to put any speculations about de Vos and Pilotto being one trick ponies to rest.